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Showing posts with label amigurumi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amigurumi. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

How to Make a Crochet Amigurumi Pig



How to Make a Crochet Amigurumi Pig


Crochet Geek will demonstrate a crochet pig. This pig is worked with  four ply worsted weight yarn and a size H, 5 millimeter crochet hook. Subscribe Today for free crochet lessons - http://goo.gl/DxXpTr  and hit the like button.  

You are welcome to share completed crochet projects, pictures, videos and free patterns to Crochet Geek's Google+ Community.


Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  How to Make a Crochet Amigurumi Pig 


Video Tutorial:  How to Make a Crochet Amigurumi Pig Left Hand Version

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations

DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch

Materials
Size G/4 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle
Fiberfill or stuffing

Stitch Instructions and Definitions
Continual Round - Do not Join.  Work in the top of the first stitch. This will eliminate the seam.



Yarn Marker -
This marks the first or last stitch of each round.  It can be a simple strand of scrap yarn to mark the stitch or a bread twisty tie.

Single Crochet Decrease - Insert the crochet hook through the stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, pull the yarn through. Insert the hook through the next stitch,  wrap the yarn over and pull it through.  There are three loops on the hook.  Wrap the yarn over and pull through all three loops.

Chain 4, join.

Round 1: Work 12 SC through the chain. Do not join and work in the continual round. (12 single crochet total)
Round 2-4:  Work 1 SC in each stitch around  (12 single crochet total)
Round 5: 2 SC in each stitch around (24 single crochet total) 
Round 6: 1 SC in each stitch around (24 single crochet total) 
Round 7:  *1 SC in each of the next 2 stitch, 2 SC in the next stitch, continue around from *, (32 single crochet total) 
Round 8-11: 1 SC in each stitch around (32 single crochet total) 
Round 12: 1 SC in each of the next 6 stitches, CH 3, skip 3
single crochet. 1 SC in each of the next 2 stitches. CH 3, skip 3, 1 SC in each of the next 18 stitches.
Round 13: 1 SC in each of the next 6 stitches,Work 3 SC in the chain, 1 SC in each of the next 2 stitches. Work 3 SC in the chain. Work 1 SC in each of the next 18 stitches.
Round 14 - 17: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (32 single crochet total)
Round 18:  Repeat round 12
Round 19:  Repeat round 13
Round 20-21: Work 1 SC in stitch around (32 single crochet total)
Round 22:  *Work 1 SC in the next stitch, work a single crochet decrease(see definition above),  repeat from , (24 single crochet total) (10 decrease stitches) There will be 2 extra stitches. This is an example of not being mathematically perfect for it to work.
Round 23-24: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24 single crochet total)
Round 25: *Work 1 SC in each of the next 2 stitches, work a single crochet decrease(see definition above), repeat from *, (18 single crochet total)
Round 26: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (18 single crochet total)

Round 27: Work 9 Single Crochet Decrease
At this point, you do not want to secure or knot the opening.  The legs will be worked.  We will come back to this and unravel a few stitches to put in the stuffing. 

Legs - Make 4

There will be four openings at the bottom of the pig belly for the legs.  All four will be the same.
Round 1: Evenly work 10 single crochet around the opening.  We will continue with the continual round
Round 2: Work 1 SC in the next stitch, Work 2 SC in the next stitch, continue around from * (15 Single Crochet total)
Round 3-4: Work one single crochet in each stitch around
Round 5: Work 1 SC in the next stitch, Work a single crochet decrease (10 single crochet total)
Cut off a long length of tail, knot and secure.  Thread your needle and weave through the last round of stitches and pull the round shut.  Knot, secure and sew in the tail.

Eyes
- The eyes can be worked before you add the stuffing or you can sew them on at the end. If you are using plastic of glass eyes, you will want to do them before stuffing and closing.
Work a chain 3, join.  Sew to head between rounds 4 and 5.


Stuffing the Pig

At this point we can stuff the pig legs and body. You will probably need to undo the last round of single crochet decrease stitches on round 27.  Once you get the pig stuff, work round 27 with the single crochet decrease.  Knot and secure.  Thread your needle and weave through the opening and pull the stitches shut.  Knot and secure, weave in the tail.

Tail - Work a chain of 10 -  Work 2 Slip stitch between different threads.  It should curl.  Once you get to the other end, weave your needle on one side and slightly pull to make the tail curl more.  I found this way made a thinner tail.  You can also work the tail with 2-3 single crochet .

Ears - Start with a magic circle or chain or 3
Round 1: Work 6 single crochet,  (continual round - see above for description)
Round 2: Work 1 SC in each stitch around.
Round 3: Work 2 SC in each stitch around ( 12 single crochet total)
Round 4: Work 1 SC in each stitch around ( 12 single crochet total)
Work a slip stitch in the next stitch to even off the round. Cut off some extra yarn.
Sew the ears to the head at approximately round 8 and 9.  When you are finished, knot and secure the yarn.  Weave between the stitches and weave to the inside of the pig and cut off the yarn.









If you are a beginner, you can find a playlist for the basic crochet stitches by clicking on this link.  Beginner Crochet Stitches

Crochet Geek YouTube -http://www.youtube.com/user/tjw1963

Crochet Geek 2 YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/user/crochet

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

How to make a Crochet Ball - Amigurumi





How to make a Crochet Ball - Amigurumi

Crochet Geek will demonstrate a crochet ball. This ball is worked with  four ply worsted weight yarn and a size H, 5 millimeter crochet hook. Subscribe Today for free crochet lessons - http://goo.gl/DxXpTr  and hit the like button.  

You are welcome to share completed crochet projects, pictures, videos and free patterns to Crochet Geek's Google+ Community.


Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  How to make a Crochet Ball


Video Tutorial:  How to make a Crochet Ball Left Hand Version


Skill Level - Easy


Abbreviations
DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch


Materials
Size H/5 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle

Fiber Fill or stuffing to stuff the ball

Stitch Instructions and Definitions

Single Crochet Decrease :  Insert your hook through the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it through, leave the two loops on the hook.  Insert your hook in the next stitch, wrap the yarn over, pull through, there are 3 loops on the hook.  Wrap the yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Chain 3, join.

Round 1: Work 9 single crochet through the ring. Work in a continual round.

Round 2:  Work 2 SC in each stitch around. (18 single crochet total)

Round 3: 1 SC in each stitch around.  (18 single crochet total)

Round 4:  *1 SC in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 SC in the next stitch. Continue around from *. (24 single crochet total)

Round 5: *1 SC in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 SC in the next stitch. Continue around from *. (30 single crochet total)

Round 6: *1 SC in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 SC in the next stitch. Continue around from *. (36 single crochet total)

Round 7-12: 1 SC in each stitch around. (36 single crochet total)

Round 13: *1 SC in each of the next 4 stitches, Work a single crochet decrease, continue around from *.   (30 single crochet total)  See above for Single Crochet Decrease

Round 14: *1 SC in each of the next 3 stitches, Work a single crochet decrease, continue around from * (24 single crochet total)  See above for Single Crochet Decrease
Stuff the ball with fiber fill.

Round 15: *1 SC in each of the next 2 stitches, Work a single crochet decrease, continue around from * (18 single crochet total)  See above for Single Crochet Decrease

Round 16: *1 SC in each stitch around.  (18 single crochet total)  

Round 17: Slip Stitch, skip a stitch (9 slip stitch total)  

Sew the top shut, knot, secure and sew in the tail.





Saturday, October 19, 2013

How to crochet Crochet Ice Cream Cone #CrochetGeek




Crochet Ice Cream Cone

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Crochet Ice Cream Cone


Video Tutorial: Crochet Ice Cream Cone Left Hand

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
SC - Single Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch


Materials
Size H/5  mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle

Stuffing

Ice Cream Top
Chain 4, join
Round 1:  Work 9 SC through the chain.  Work in the Continual round.
Round 2: Work 2 SC in each stitch around ( 18 SC total)
Round 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around  ( 18 SC total)
Round 4: *Work 1 SC, 2 SC in next. continue around from * ( 27 SC total)
Round 5-12: Work 1 SC in each stitch around  ( 27 SC total)
Round 13: *Work 1 SC, SC DEC, continue around from * ( 18 SC total)

Waffle Cone

Round 1:  Work 5 SC through the chain.  Work in the Continual round.
Round 2-3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (5 single crochet total)
Round 4: 2 SC, 1 SC, 2 SC, 1 SC, 2 SC,  (8 single crochet total)
Round 5: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (8 single crochet total)
Round 6: *1 SC, 2 SC, work 4 time total from * (12 single crochet total)
Round 7-8: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (12 single crochet total)
Round 9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2, work 4 times from * (16 single crochet total)
Round 10: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (16 single crochet total)
Round 11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3, work 4 times from * (20 single crochet total)
Round 12-13: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (20 single crochet total)
Round 14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4, work 4 times from * (24 single crochet total)
Round 15-16: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24 single crochet total)

Stuff the Cone and top
Sew the sections together.


Optional: Cherry, Embroidery chocolate chunks and drizzle on the cone. See video for additional instructions.

+Crochet Geek 


+LeftHandCrochet





Reference Data


If you are a beginner, you can find a playlist for the basic crochet stitches by clicking on this link.  Beginner Crochet Stitches

Crochet Geek YouTube -http://www.youtube.com/user/tjw1963

Crochet Geek 2 YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/user/crochet



Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Crochet Manatee Bart




Crochet Manatee

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  
Crochet Manatee

Video Tutorial: Crochet Manatee Left Hand Version

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch


Materials
Size G/4.25 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle






Chain 3 Join.
Round 1: Work 9 HDC through the chain, 3 SC through the chain, join.
You will want a yarn marker to identify the first stitch on each round.
Round 2: Work 1 SC in each stitch around, ( 12 single crochet total)
Round 3: Working in the loop behind the stitch, work  SC in each loop around.  This will create a lip around the snout.  You don't have to create it this way and can work regular single crochet.
Working in the continual round.
Round 4: 1SC, 1SC, 2SC, 1SC, 2SC, 1SC, 2SC, 1 SC in each of next 5,  ( 15 single crochet total)
Round 5: Work 1 SC in each stitch around  ( 15 single crochet total)
Round 6:  1 SC in each of the next 5, work 2 SC in each of the next 10 stitches ( 25 single crochet total)
Round 7-9: Work 1 SC in each stitch around ( 25 single crochet total)
Round 10: Work 1 SC in each of the next 8 stitches, 2SC, 1SC, 2SC, 1SC, 2SC, 1SC, 2SC, work 1SC in each of the next 9 stitches.
Round 11-20: work 1 SC in each stitch around ( 29 single crochet total)

This is a good time to work on the eyes and snout while we still have access to the inside.
Eyes Chain 3, join, sew to attach.

Round 21:  Work 1 SC in each of the next 10 stitches,  1 SC DEC, 1 SC,  1 SC DEC, 1 SC,  1 SC DEC, 1 SC, 1 SC DEC, work 1 SC in each of the next 8 stitches.  ( 25 single crochet total)
Round 22: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. ( 25 single crochet total)
Round 23: Work 1 SC in each of the next 7 stitches,  1 SC DEC, 1 SC,  1 SC DEC, 1 SC,  1 SC DEC, 1 SC, 1 SC DEC, Work 1 SC in each of the next 7 stitches.  ( 21 single crochet total)
Round 24:  Work 1 SC in each stitch around.  ( 21 single crochet total)
You will want to stuff with filling before closing up to tight.
Round 25: Work *SC DEC, 1SC, work 7 times total from * ( 14 single crochet total)
Round 26:  Work 1 SC in each stitch around. ( 14 single crochet total)
Round 27: Work * 1 SC in each of the next 5 stitches, 1 SC DEC, repeat two times total from * ( 12 single crochet total)
Start of the back tail fin
Round 28: Work 1 SC in each stitch around ( 12 single crochet total)
Round 29: *Work 2 SC in next stitch(single crochet increase), work 1 SC, work six times total from*.   (18 single crochet total)
Round 30-35:  Work 1 SC in each stitch around.   (18 single crochet total)
Cut the yarn, extra length, pull through and secure.  Sew the two edges together. 
Optional:  Upon completion, there are points on each side of the fin.  I secured a knot and pulled the corners down to give them a rounded shape.

Side Fin-Make 2:  Attach to the side approximately 12 rounds back from the snout, close to the bottom.
We are working right over the single crochet
Round 1: work 3 single crochet over 3 stitches, turn, work 3 single crochet over 3 for a total of 6
Round 2: *Work 2 SC in same stitch, work 1 SC, complete 3 times total from *. (9 single crochet total)
Round 3-11: Work 1 SC in each stitch around.  (9 single crochet total)












Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Crochet Strawberry





Crochet Strawberry 

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Crochet Strawberry


Video Tutorial: Crochet Strawberry Left Hand Version

Skill Level - Easy

Abbreviations
SC - Single Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch

FLO - Front Loop Only
SC DEC FLO - Single Crochet Decrease Front Loop Only

FLO - There are two loops at the top of the stitch. You will work in the front loop.  This is the FLO of Front Loop Only.

SC DEC FLO - Insert your hook through the front loop only, wrap the yarn over, pull it through.  Insert your hook through the next stitch FLO, wrap the yarn over, pull it through.  There are 3 loops on your hook, wrap the yarn over pull through all 3 loops.  This completes the single crochet decrease through the front loop only.  Each single crochet decrease will count as one single crochet.  We are reducing two stitches, down to one stitch.

Materials
Size G/4.25 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle


If you are a beginner, you can find a playlist for the basic crochet stitches by clicking on this link.  Beginner Crochet Stitches

Crochet Geek YouTube -http://www.youtube.com/user/tjw1963

Crochet Geek 2 YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/user/crochet

Chain 3, join
Round 1:  Work 9 SC through the chain, do not join, work in continual round.
Round 2: Work 2 SC in each stitch around (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 3-6: Work 1 SC in each stitch around (18 Single Crochet total)
Round 7: *Work 1 SC, Work a SC DEC, FLO (12 Single Crochet Total) 
Round 8-9: 1 SC in each stitch around.  (12 Single Crochet Total) 
Round 10: *Work 1 SC in next stitch, in the next work SC DEC FLO, repeat from * (8 Single Crochet Total) 
Round 11: Work 4 SC DEC FLO, this is to close up the round and form the point.   This round may be challenging.  If you are unable to work the decrease stitches, stop and sew the remaining stitches shut at the top.  Upon completion, sew any gaps or holes shut on the end.

Leaf - 6 total (you can work more or less if you prefer)
*Work a chain 7, work 1 SC in each of the next 3 chains, work 1 HDC in each of the next 3 chains, continue working from * starting with the Chain 7. There will be a total of 6 leaves.  Upon completion, join with a slip stitch at the base of the first leave.

Weave the yarn through the base of the stitches, pull the opening until it closes up.  Sew the leaves to the top of the strawberry.

Sew in all the tails.




Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Amigurumi Crochet LadyBug Princess
















Crochet LadyBug Princess

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:  Crochet Amigurumi LadyBug Princess

Video Tutorial:  Left Hand Amigurumi Crochet LadyBug Princess

Skill Level - Intermediate

Abbreviations
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each

ST - Stitch

Materials
Size H/5 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn - 2 Main Colors
Tapestry Needle

Yarn Marker - A piece of scrap yarn will work to mark rounds

You can use different size crochet hooks and yarn with this project.  If the hook/yarn is smaller, it will make a smaller finished piece. If the hook/yarn is larger, it will make a larger finished piece.


The chain can be replaced with the magic circle, if you familiar with the technique.


LadyBug Shell Top

Attach a slip knot to the crochet hook. Chain 3, join
Round 1: Work 12 SC through the center of the chain. Do not join. The rest of this section will be worked with the continual round. Attach a yarn marker to mark the first stitch.

Round 2: Work 2 SC in each stitch around.  (24 single crochet total)
Round 3-4: 1 SC in each stitch around. (24 single crochet total)
Round 5: *1 SC in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 SC in the next ST. Continue around from * 8 times total. (32 single crochet total)
Round 6: 1 SC in EA ST around.  (32 single crochet total)
Round 7: *1 SC in EA of the next 7 ST. 2 SC in the next ST. Continue around from * 4 times total.   (36 single crochet total)
Round 8-10: 1 SC in EA stitch around.  (36 single crochet total)

LadyBug Bottom
Attach a slip knot to the crochet hook. Chain 3, Join.
Round 1: Work 12 SC through the chain.  Do not join. The rest of this section will be worked with the continual round. Attach a yarn marker to mark the first stitch.
Round 2: Work 2 SC in each stitch around.  (24 single crochet total)
Round 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around.  (24 single crochet total)
Round 4: *1 SC in ea of the next 3 stitches, 2 SC in the next, continue around from *. (30 single crochet total)
Round 5:  *1 SC in ea of the next 4 stitches, 2 SC in the next, continue around from *. (36 single crochet total)
Round 6: 1 SC in each stitch around, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch in the next to even off the round.  (36 single crochet total)

Legs
Chain 6, work 1 SC in each of the next 2 chains. Work 3 HDC in each of the next 3 chains. SL ST at the base of the HDC. Cut a long length of yarn, pull the tail through to secure.  This yarn will be used to attach the legs to the shell.


Head
CH 5.
Round 1: 1 SC in each of the 4 chains, 2 SC in the same chain, 1 SC in each of the next 2, 2 SC in the same chain as the first SC. Do not join and work in a continual round. (10 Stitches total)
Round 2:  2 SC in the same stitch, 1 SC in ea of the next 2,  2 SC in ea of the next 3 stitches, 1 SC in ea of the next 2, 2 SC in ea of the next 2 stitches. (16 stitches total)
Round 3: 1 SC in ea of next 6 stitches, 2 SC in ea of next 2 stitches, 1 SC in ea of next 6, 2 SC in ea of next 2. (20 stitches total)
Round 4-6: 1 SC in each stitch around.  (20 stitches total)

Eyes - Chain 3, join. With a contrasting color, work a French Knot in the center of the eye.  Sew a knot to secure on the inside of the head.  


Dots - Chain 3, join. Cut an extra long length of yarn. Pull both tails to the inside.  Knot the two tails. Take the long tail and secure the dot. Work some French Knots for different size dots.


Mouth and Shell Line:  Work an embroidery chain.  I found that pulling 4 ply yarn apart and using 2 strands made a thinner line.  Knot the tails on the inside of the head.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Parade of Crochet Amigurumi Bears and One Rabbit

Thank you to everyone who participated!

Would any of you be interested in doing another bear video or random crochet video? I thought everyone had submitted that was going to so I apologize to anyone who would have liked to participate and missed the information.

The following are links to some of the blogs and shops.

made by c. photoblog:
http://skywaydrive.tumblr.com

http://www.emilyknitsandcrochet.etsy.com

CJ at TallisTawk
http://tallistawk.blogspot.com/


http://peanutt-thisnthat.blogspot.com

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31896167@N03/sets/72157608477241620/


Friday, February 26, 2010

Crochet Ogeechee Bear - Amigurumi







Crochet Ogeechee Bear - Amigurumi

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial: Crochet Ogeechee Bear - Amigurumi

Video Tutorial: Left Hand Crochet Ogeechee Bear - Amigurumi

Video Tutorial: Magic Circle

Skill Level - Easy

Abbreviations
HDC - Half Double Crochet
CH - Chain
SL ST - Slip Stitch

Materials
Size G/4.25 mm crochet hook
4 ply yarn
Tapestry Needle
Stuffing or filling



Ogeechee Bear Cap

Stitch Instructions and Definitions
Single Crochet Decrease - Insert the crochet through the first stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through, insert the crochet hook through the next stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through. There will be 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn and pull through all 3 loops.

Continual Round - Instead of joining, work the first single crochet in the top of the first stitch. You will want a yarn marker to mark the first stitch of the round. This is so you know when to change rounds. A scrap piece of yarn or left over tail work very well for a yarn marker.

Arm - Make 2
Magic Circle
Round 1: Work 6 SC through the loop. (6 Single Crochet Total)
Do not join, work a continual round.
Round 2: Work 2 SC in each SC around. (12 Single Crochet Total)
Knot and secure the magic circle.
Round 3-11: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (12 Single Crochet Total)
Round 12: Work 6 Single Crochet Decrease total
Cut a long length of tail. Stuff the arm and sew it shut.

Leg - Make 2
Magic Circle
Round 1: Work 9 SC through the loop. (9 Single Crochet Total)
Do not join, work a continual round.
Round 2: Work 2 SC in each SC around. (18 Single Crochet Total)
Knot and secure the magic circle.
Round 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (18 Single Crochet Total)
Round 4: 1 SC in ea of the next 3 stitches, work 6 SC DEC, work 1 SC in ea of the next 3. (12 Single Crochet Total)
Round 5-12: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (12 Single Crochet Total)
Round 13: Work 6 Single Crochet Decrease total
Cut a long length of tail. Stuff the leg and sew it shut.

Body
Magic Circle
Round 1: Work 9 SC through the loop. (9 Single Crochet Total)
Do not join, work a continual round.
Round 2:
Work 2 SC in each SC around. (18 Single Crochet Total)
Knot and secure the magic circle.
Round 3: Work 1 SC, work 2 SC . (27 Single Crochet Total)
Round 4-12:
Work 1 SC in each stitch around . (27 Single Crochet Total)
Round 13: Work 1 SC DEC, work 1 SC.
(18 Single Crochet Total)
Round 14-15:
Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (18 Single Crochet Total)
Round 16:
Work 9 single crochet decrease total Cut a long length of tail. Stuff and sew shut.

Head

Magic Circle
Round 1: Work 9 SC through the loop. (9 Single Crochet Total)
Do not join, work a continual round.
Round 2:
Work 2 SC in each SC around. (18 Single Crochet Total)
Knot and secure the magic circle.
Round 3: Work 1 SC, work 2 SC . (27 Single Crochet Total)
Round 4:
Work 1 SC in ea of next 4, work 2 SC in next, continue around. (32 Single Crochet Total)
Round 5-11: 1 SC in each stitch around
(32 Single Crochet Total)
Round 12: Work 16 single crochet decrease.
Stuff the head.
Round 13: Work 8 single crochet decrease. Sew the top of the head shut.

Sew round 13 of the head to round 16 of the body. Knot, secure and sew in the tail. Align and sew the arms and legs to the bear.
Knot, secure and sew in the tails.

Snout
Magic Circle
Round 1: Work 6 single crochet
( 6 single crochet total)
Do not join, work a continual round.
Round 2: Work 2 SC in each stitch around. ( 12 single crochet total)
Knot and secure the magic circle.
Round 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. (12 single crochet total)
Stuff the snout. Align to the lower front of the head and sew in place.
Knot, secure and sew in the tails.

Ear - Make 2
Magic Circle
Row 1: Work 5 single crochet through the loop, Chain and turn. (5 Single Crochet total)
Row 2: Work 2 SC in each stitch across, Chain and turn. (10 Single Crochet total)
Row 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch across, cut the yarn and secure.
Round 4: With a contrasting color work 1 row of the reverse single crochet.
Align and sew the ears to the top of the head. Knot, secure and sew in the tails.




Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Amigurumi Shape Playlist

The playlist shows some of the basic shapes that could be used in the construction of amigurumi animals and larger stuffed toys. The Japanese use a smaller hook and thread/yarn to create the fine detail of the small animals. From the feedback I get, I have found that the word is often associated with any stuffed animal.



Monday, March 23, 2009

Large Amigurumi Egg or Mouse


The Large Egg has the purple line around it in the image.

Large Amigurumi Egg or Mouse

Written by Teresa Richardson

The Video is for the medium size mouse. It will give you a good idea how amigurumi is done.
Video Tutorial:
Amigurumi Crochet Mouse

Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Materials
Size H/5mm Crochet Hook
4-ply Yarn
Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry Needle
2 buttons

Abbreviations
SC - Single Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each
ST - Stitch
SC DEC - Single Crochet Decrease
MC - Magic Circle
HDC - Half Double Crochet
Single Crochet Decrease - This is where you join 2 single crochet, reducing them down to 1 stitch. Insert the hook in the first stitch, wrap the yarn over, pull it through. There will be 2 loops on the hook. Insert the hook in the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it through the stitch. There will be 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. This completes the single crochet decrease.

Chain 3, Join.
Round 1: 6 SC in loop, do not join. (6 single crochet total)
The first single crochet will be in the top of the previous round without joining. The remaining project will be worked in a continual round.

Round 2: 2 SC in ea SC around ( 12 single crochet total) Mark the last stitch with a yarn marker.

Round 3-4: 1 SC in ea SC around (12 single crochet total)

Round 5: *1 SC in the next ST, 2 SC in the next ST. Continue around from* 6 times total. (18 single crochet total)

Round 6-7: 1 SC in ea SC around. (18 Single Crochet total)

Round 8: *1 SC in next SC, 2 SC in next SC, Continue around from *. (18 Single Crochet total)

Round 9-12: 1 SC in ea SC around. (24 Single Crochet total)

Round 13: Work 12 Single Crochet decrease. (12 Single Crochet total)

Round 14: Work 6 Single Crochet decrease. (6 Single Crochet total)

Cut the yarn and secure the tail by pulling it through the stitch. Weave the needle through the remaining stitch and pull the opening shut. Knot and secure a couple of times. Sew the tail up through the center of the mouse. Cut off any remaining portion of the tail.

Ears: Magic Circle, ch1, pull loop up, Work 6 HDC through the loop. Do not join. Sew the first HDC and last HDC together to shape ear. Knot and secure both tails. Sew to the mouse body. See image for placement

Tail: CH 10, cut yarn. Sew tail to mouse. Weave the tail at the end of the tail through the chains. Knot and secure both tails and sew in to the body.

Eyes: Sew both buttons to the head. Knot and secure the tail and sew in to the body.

Front Feet: Slip stitch yarn to front bottom side of mouse. CH1, SC, turn , SC in previous SC. Cut yarn, knot, secure and hide tails in the mouse body. (Make 2)

Back Feet: Slip stitch yarn to back bottom side of mouse. CH 1, Work 2 SC, *turn, work 1 SC in ea of the 2 SC, Complete 2 times total from *. Cut yarn, knot, secure and hide tails in the mouse body. (Make 2)

Small Crochet Amigurumi Egg or Mouse


Small Crochet Amigurumi Egg or Mouse

Written by Teresa Richardson

Skill Level:
Beginner/Intermediate

Materials
Size H/5mm Crochet Hook (You can use different size crochet hooks)
4-ply Yarn
Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry Needle
2 buttons

Abbreviations
SC - Single Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each
ST - Stitch
SC DEC - Single Crochet Decrease
MC - Magic Circle
HDC - Half Double Crochet
Single Crochet Decrease - This is where you join 2 single crochet, reducing them down to 1 stitch. Insert the hook in the first stitch, wrap the yarn over, pull it through. There will be 2 loops on the hook. Insert the hook in the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it through the stitch. There will be 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. This completes the single crochet decrease.

Chain 3, Join.
Round 1: 6 SC in loop, do not join. (6 single crochet total)
The first single crochet will be in the top of the previous round without joining. The remaining project will be worked in a continual round.

Round 2: 2 SC in ea SC around ( 12 single crochet total) Mark the last stitch with a yarn marker.

Round 3-6: 1 SC in ea SC around (12 single crochet total)
Stuff the egg/mouse with fiberfill.
Round 7: Work 3-4 Single Crochet decrease, It will start to get snug.

Cut the yarn and secure the tail by pulling it through the stitch. Weave the needle through the remaining stitch and pull the opening shut. Knot and secure a couple of times. Sew the tail up through the center of the egg/mouse. Cut off any remaining portion of the tail.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Amigurumi Crochet Mouse


Amigurumi Crochet Mouse

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial:
Amigurumi Crochet Mouse

Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Materials
Size H/5mm Crochet Hook
4-ply Yarn
Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry Needle
2 buttons

Abbreviations
SC - Single Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each
ST - Stitch
SC DEC - Single Crochet Decrease
MC - Magic Circle
HDC - Half Double Crochet
Single Crochet Decrease - This is where you join 2 single crochet, reducing them down to 1 stitch. Insert the hook in the first stitch, wrap the yarn over, pull it through. There will be 2 loops on the hook. Insert the hook in the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it through the stitch. There will be 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. This completes the single crochet decrease.

Chain 3, Join.
Round 1: 6 SC in loop, do not join. (6 single crochet total)
The first single crochet will be in the top of the previous round without joining. The remaining project will be worked in a continual round.

Round 2: 2 SC in ea SC around ( 12 single crochet total) Mark the last stitch with a yarn marker.

Round 3: 1 SC in ea SC around (12 single crochet total)

Round 4: *1 SC in the next ST, 2 SC in the next ST. Continue around from* 6 times total. (18 single crochet total)

Round 5-11: 1 SC in ea SC around. (18 Single Crochet total)
Stuff the mouse with fiberfill.

Round 12: Work 9 Single Crochet decrease. (9 Single Crochet total)

Work a couple more single crochet decreases. Cut the yarn and secure the tail by pulling it through the stitch. Weave the needle through the remaining stitch and pull the opening shut. Knot and secure a couple of times. Sew the tail up through the center of the mouse. Cut off any remaining portion of the tail.

Ears: Magic Circle, ch1, pull loop up, Work 6 HDC through the loop. Do not join. Sew the first HDC and last HDC together to shape ear. Knot and secure both tails. Sew to the mouse body. See image for placement

Tail: CH 10, cut yarn. Sew tail to mouse. Weave the tail at the end of the tail through the chains. Knot and secure both tails and sew in to the body.

Eyes: Sew both buttons to the head. Knot and secure the tail and sew in to the body.

Front Feet: Slip stitch yarn to front bottom side of mouse. CH1, SC, turn , SC in previous SC. Cut yarn, knot, secure and hide tails in the mouse body. (Make 2)

Back Feet: Slip stitch yarn to back bottom side of mouse. CH 1, Work 2 SC, *turn, work 1 SC in ea of the 2 SC, Complete 2 times total from *. Cut yarn, knot, secure and hide tails in the mouse body. (Make 2)

Crochet Amigurumi Egg


Crochet Amigurumi Egg

Video Tutorial:
Crochet Amigurumi Egg

Written by Teresa Richardson

Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Materials
Size H/5mm Crochet Hook
4-ply Yarn
Polyester Fiberfill
Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations
SC - Single Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
EA - Each
ST - Stitch
SC DEC - Single Crochet Decrease
Single Crochet Decrease - This is where you join 2 single crochet, reducing them down to 1 stitch. Insert the hook in the first stitch, wrap the yarn over, pull it through. There will be 2 loops on the hook. Insert the hook in the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it through the stitch. There will be 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. This completes the single crochet decrease.

Chain 3, Join.
Round 1: 6 SC in loop, do not join. (6 single crochet total)
The first single crochet will be in the top of the previous round without joining. The remaining project will be worked in a continual round.

Round 2: 2 SC in ea SC around ( 12 single crochet total) Mark the last stitch with a yarn marker.

Round 3: 1 SC in ea SC around (12 single crochet total)

Round 4: *1 SC in the next ST, 2 SC in the next ST. Continue around from* 6 times total. (18 single crochet total)

Round 5-11: 1 SC in ea SC around. (18 Single Crochet total)
Stuff the egg with fiberfill.

Round 12: Work 9 Single Crochet decrease. (9 Single Crochet total)

Work a couple more single crochet decreases. Cut the yarn and secure the tail by pulling it through the stitch. Weave the needle through the remaining stitch and pull the opening shut. Knot and secure a couple of times. Sew the tail up through the center of the egg. Cut off any remaining portion of the tail.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Yarn Markers- Recycle Your Tails - Crochet Tip 15

You have all heard me talk about using yarn markers when working in a continual round. This is so you have an idea where the first stitch is located, in creating a balanced cap or amigurumi project. It may be difficult to see the first single crochet when working in a standard round, so you may need to mark the stitch so you don't crochet right over it. You may need a yarn marker for reference in telling what stitches to crochet in and what stitches should be left alone. I have found yarn markers useful in shaping necklines and armholes of sweaters.

At any time we may need a yarn marker. Don't waste your money purchasing a yarn marker from the store. You make plenty of your own yarn markers every time you crochet
. Your tails are perfect yarn markers, both yarn and thread.

In this slipper example below, I have used a yarn marker at the top of the slipper so I would know what part of it was the top. That section was created prior to the heel. The marker to the left was used to mark stitches that were to remain open with no crochet stitches across that section. From that point on I was working in rows so the yarn marker was telling me where to crochet and where to stop.

.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Crochet Count - Exact or Not Exact - Crochet Tip 11

Sometimes it is necessary to be exact in crochet count. Other times being off a stitch or two will not matter. I can remember being caught up in numbers so much that I spent hour after hour, ripping my work out trying to get the exact number. As we have discussed previously it could be an error in the written pattern so that is always something to keep in the back of your mind.

You will want an exact count when you are making the following projects.
  • Afghan -You want the width and length to be as even as possible with your afghan. A ripple afghan relies heavily on exact count or you may wind up with steep peeks, mixed in with waves and bumps. 
  • Sweater-  You especially want your sweater to fit after you have spent days shaping and crocheting your garment.  
  • Doily - Most doily's are very intricate and detailed.  It is easy to get off track with a doily so attention and count is very iportant here. 
I have been off with count on everything that I mentioned.  Sometimes I have had to rip out lots of rows.  Other times I was able to recover by adding in an extra stitch.  Some projects require paying very close attention to the count and detail.

There are times that it may not be necessary to have an exact count.  
  • When you are making a hat all in the same color and in a continual round.  I have found myself off on occasion to be off by 2 or 3 stitches.  You can add an extra stitch or just continue on if the cap is fitting correctly. It is not going to make a big difference in the outcome and will not be noticed.
  • If you are making an amigurumi shape and happen to be off a few stitch numbers.
  • Working in rounds.  You can easliy add in an extra stitch if you feel it is necessary.
I can remember making oval eyes for a stuffed toy.  My shapes were off by 2 stitches.  I would make another shape, driving myself nuts, trying to get them exact.  I won't do that anymore because it won't even be noticed.  When ever you can, save yourself some frustration. Exact count may not be so important.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Crochet Round and Spiral - Crochet Tip 10


Click on Image for larger view. You will be able to see a different between the two.

There are two techniques that can be done when creating a crochet circle.

Each time you do a round, you do a slip stitch, then the chain 1 to get up to the next round. If you are doing a spiral you will not be be joining.

Here are two simple ways to remember the difference between round and spiral.
1: Round = Slip Stitch to join at the beginning of each round.

2: Spiral = No Slip Stitch


When doing a spiral a marker is recommended to mark the beginning row of a spiral. I just use a scrap piece of yarn. You don't have to purchase anything fancy. Another thing that happens is that the marker will shift to the right as the beginning stitch will shift to the left.

When you are creating a doily or motif, most likely you will be working in rounds. For hats, caps, amigurumi shapes, rugs, or afghans that are continual with the same stitch, I prefer a spiral. It leaves no seam and that is what I like about the spiral. When you have a choice, the choice is up to you which technique you will be using.




Crochet Geek 2 YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/user/crochet

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Motif - Correct Pronunciation - Mo-TEEF

I make errors and this is one of those times. I let a couple of people know that I was going to try correct my error. As we all know, triangles, squares and circles can create a Motif. Well, I pronounced Motif wrong in several videos. I pronounced Amigurumi wrong earlier in the year, so it is not my first verbal error. Maybe one day Youtube will provide an audio edit so I can replace small segments of audio, while leaving the original video up. I learned a couple days ago that I was pronouncing it wrong all these years. I deeply apologize to those of you who may have learned how to say it wrong because of me. It is pronounced Mo-TEEF. I am working on remembering so the next time I do a Motif tutorial I won't say it wrong.

Mo-TEEF
Mo-TEEF
Mo-TEEF
Mo-TEEF
Mo-TEEF

Monday, June 30, 2008

Chain vs. Magic Circle

One of the more common questions I get is "Can I use the magic circle instead of the chain" or "Can I use the chain instead of the magic circle". Most of the time it is just a matter of preference. It is not going to make a difference in the outcome of your project if you use the magic circle or chain. Your magic circle can be the same size as a chain of 50. Just remember to knot your magic circle well.



The magic circle is new to me as of March 2008. It is a simple loop with the starting stitches crocheted over the thread. It is a popular start with the amigurumi crochet. When the round is complete, it will close nice and tight. I love using the magic circle start variation. I have been using the magic circle where it calls for a chain since I learned the method. What I like about the magic circle is you get a nice and tight closure with the beginning round. It does get very full with more than 16 stitches in the beginning round. If you are wanting an opening at the beginning round, then by all means, use a chain instead. It is important to remember to make several secure knots with your magic circle once you have completed your project or it will come apart.



The chain on the other hand is a little heavier. You adjust your opening size with the number of chains in the beginning of your loop. You slip stitch the end of your chain to the beginning chain, forming the loop to hold your stitches. This works well if you are starting with a lot of double crochet or with a granny square that will be washed a lot. The decision is yours.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Amigurumi Tube - Arm or Leg



Amigurumi Tube

Pattern by Teresa Richardson

Chain 3 or Magic Circle

Round 1: Ch 1, 6 SC in the loop. Do not join (6 Single Crochet)

Round 2: 2 SC in each ST around (12 Single Crochet)

Round 3: SC around, until you get to the length you want your tube.

Once you complete the length of your arm or leg, stuff the piece
with polyester fiberfill.


Decreasing:

Decrease Round 1: SC DEC 6 times. (6 Single Crochet)

Decrease Round 2: SC DEC 3 times. (3 Single Crochet)

Video Tutorial:
Amigurumi Tube - Arm or Leg

Beginner Crochet Stitches and Techniques

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