I make errors and this is one of those times. I let a couple of people know that I was going to try correct my error. As we all know, triangles, squares and circles can create a Motif. Well, I pronounced Motif wrong in several videos. I pronounced Amigurumi wrong earlier in the year, so it is not my first verbal error. Maybe one day Youtube will provide an audio edit so I can replace small segments of audio, while leaving the original video up. I learned a couple days ago that I was pronouncing it wrong all these years. I deeply apologize to those of you who may have learned how to say it wrong because of me. It is pronounced Mo-TEEF. I am working on remembering so the next time I do a Motif tutorial I won't say it wrong.
Round 2: Ch 1, *SC, TC in same ST, repeat from * 9 times. (There will 9 sets of single crochet, triple crochet)
Round 3: Ch 1, *SC in same SC, CH 5, skip about 5 stitches or 1/4 around the flower and SC, repeat 4 times, joining the last chain in the beginning single crochet. You will have 4 chain 5 loops evenly distributed around the circle.
Round 4: SL ST in to the CH 5 loop. CH 3, 2 DC CH 2, 2 DC in the same loop. *CH 1, 3 DC in the next SC, CH 1. 3 DC, CH 2, 3 DC in the CH 5 LP. Repeat from * 3 times. CH 1, 3 DC in the next SC. SC in beg CH 3 to join.
Round 5: Ch 3 in joining space, 2 DC in same SP. *CH 1, 3 DC, CH 2, 3 DC in the CH 5 LP. CH 1, 3 DC in next CH 1 SP. CH 1, 3 DC in next CH 1 SP. Repeat from * 3 times. CH 1, 3 DC, CH 2, 3 DC in the CH 5 LP. CH 1, 3 DC in next CH 1 SP. CH 1, Join in beg ch 3.
Round 1: Ch 1, *2 SC, CH 2 from * 4 times, 2 SC, CH 1, HDC in BEG SC.( There will be a total of, 5 sets of 2 SC CH 2)
Round 2: CH 1, 2 SC in loop, SK over the next 2 SC. *In the next CH 2 loop do, 2 SC CH 2, 2 SC, SK over the next 2 SC(this is the decrease). repeat from * 4 times. 2 SC in the beginning CH 2 SP. CH 1, HDC in BEG SC. This will end in the center point of the star.
Round 3: CH 1, 2 SC in the same loop, 1 SC in the next st, SK the next 2 SC(this is the center decrease), SC in the next SC, *2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC in the next CH 2 loop. 1 SC in the next st, SK the next 2 SC(this is the center decrease), repeat from * 4 times. 1 SC in the next SC, 2 SC in the beg loop. CH 1, HDC in BEG SC to join.
Round 4: CH 1, 2 SC in the same loop, 1 SC in ea of the next 2 st, SK the next 2 SC(this is the center decrease), 1 SC in ea of the next 2 SC, *2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC in the next CH 2 loop. 1 SC in ea of the next 2 st, SK the next 2 SC(this is the center decrease), repeat from * 4 times. 1 SC in ea of the next 2 SC, 2 SC in the beg loop. CH 2, SL ST to join.
Round 1: CH 2, 3 HDC, *CH 2, 4 HDC, repeat from * 4 times. CH 1, HDC in beg CH 2. ( 5 Sets of 4 HDC, CH 2)
Round 2: CH 2, 1 HDC in same loop, *1 HDC in next ST. HDC DEC over next 2 Sts. HDC in next ST. 2 HDC CH 2, 2 HDC in corner CH. HDC in next ST. Repeat from * 4 times. HDC in next ST, HDC DEC, HDC in next ST. 2 HDC in beg CH 2. CH 1, HDC in beg CH.
Round 3: CH 2, 1 HDC in same SP. *1 HDC in ea of the next 2 Sts. HDC DEC over next two Sts, skipping previous HDC DEC. HDC in ea of the next 2 Sts. 2 HDC, CH 2, 2 HDC in corner CH. 1 HDC in ea of the next 2 Sts. Repeat from * 4 times. 1 HDC in ea of the next 2 ST, HDC DEC, HDC in ea of the next 2 ST. 2 HDC in beg CH 2. CH 1, HDC in beg CH.
Round 4: CH 2, 1 HDC in same SP. *1 HDC in ea of the next 3 Sts. HDC DEC over next two Sts, skipping previous HDC DEC. 1 HDC in ea of the next 3 Sts. 2 HDC, CH 2, 2 HDC in corner CH. Repeat from * 4 times. 1 HDC in ea of the next 3 ST, HDC DEC, HDC in ea of the next 3 ST. 2 HDC in beg CH 2. CH 1, HDC in beg CH.
Round 5: CH 2, 1 HDC in same SP. *1 HDC in ea of the next 4 Sts. HDC DEC over next two Sts, skipping previous HDC DEC. 1 HDC in ea of the next 4 Sts. 2 HDC, CH 2, 2 HDC in corner CH. Repeat from * 4 times. 1 HDC in ea of the next 3 ST, HDC DEC, HDC in ea of the next 4 ST. 2 HDC in beg CH 2. CH 1, HDC in beg
There are two ways to decrease on the edge of a crochet piece. You can decrease by eliminating a stitch or you can do an actual decrease by joining two stitches together. The reason for how I decrease is to make sure there are no holes. The edges are where holes usually develop in turning and decreasing. If I need to decrease at the beginning of a row, I will do my chain, then do the decrease over the next two stitches. This will fill in and not leave a hole at the edge of my piece. On occasion, such as a ripple stitch, a hole might not be a big deal. Decreasing by eliminating a stitch will be perfectly fine. There are two variations when it comes to decreasing a crochet stitch.
When making a beginning circle loop, many of us have probably asked ourselves, Where do we put our Hook, in & through the chains or around the chains? Both ways are correct. Method 1 is when you crochet through each individual chain. This will give you an even distribution and will limit stitch movement. Method 2 is over and around the chain loop, which will give you an uneven distribution. You will be able to evenly distribute your stitches when you are finished with your first round. I prefer method 2 in how the stitches look over the chain loop. Method 2 is what I use most of the time.
The image below shows two circles, each with a chain 8 and 16 Double Crochet. The circle to the left shows how the chain will look with a 2 double in each chain. The circle to the right shows how the project will look by crocheting over and around the chain. Click on the image for a larger view.
When doing a motif or granny square ,we may come across a chain at some point in the motif. The decision is still up to you on crocheting through the chains or around the chains. Both are correct. The final look of your project is up to you.
Everyone has experienced difficult patterns at times. You might find yourself reading over the written instructions more than you are crocheting. You may find yourself ripping out the same row 20 times because it is not turning out as described by the instructions. In my early crochet years, I discovered that professional publications are not immune to mistakes. My suggestion is to put your work down for a day or two. Go back to it with success in your mind. This is where you will find your biggest ahhhh-haaaaa moments in crochet. The stitch that you may have been struggling with will make sense or you will find that error in the written publication. There is something about clearing your brain, that make continuing on with a difficult pattern, a lot easier to complete.
Round 1: CH 1, 1 SC, 1 DC in ea st around or each chain if you are using chains. Join.
This project will be worked in rounds, turning on each round for an even distribution of the seed stitch. Turn. Mark the beginning stitch with a marker so you know where your round ends.
Round 2-12: SC, DC in each DC on the previous round. Continue around with a SC,DC (Seed Stitch) combination in each DC around. Join in beg SC, turn.
The piece will be in the shape of a pouch with an opening at the top. Lay the piece down so that you have a square. Fold the opening edges so they come together and touch each other. This will form two more points on the potholder creating the square. Knot and Sew in the beginning tail. Knot and Sew seam shut and sew in all tails.
Round 1: Ch 2, 9 HDC in the loop. Join in beg CH 2. (10 HDC total, counting the first CH 2 as a HDC)
Round 2: CH 1, SC in same ST. *CH 3, SK 1 ST and SC in the next ST, repeat 4 time from * CH 3, SK next ST, SL ST in beg SC to join. (5 CH 3 Loops all together) Join in beginning SC.
Round 3: SL ST in CH 3 Space. *CH 2, 9 TC in loop, CH 2, SL ST in same loop, SL ST in to next CH 3 loop. Repeat from * twice for a total of 2 petals. *CH 1, 9 DC in loop, CH 1, SL ST in same loop, SL ST in to next CH 3 loop. Repeat from * three times for a total of 3 petals. (2 Large petals, 3 Small petals)
Round 4: CH 2, SL ST in next st; continue around for the whole flower edging.
The designer of a pattern, will create a unique gauge by default, to their specification just by the yarn and hook they choose. Gauge is also done by individual tension. Tension is just how tight or loose you hold your yarn/thread while you are crocheting. We can even add in an amount of guesstimating to figuring gauge. Even if you use the exact same supplies recommended by the pattern, the gauge could be off due to the unique tension of each individual. The designer has done the hard part by creating and shaping the pattern. All you need to do is figure your gauge and then work it in to the pattern.
Another thing to keep in mind when creating a project is to purchase enough yarn/thread for your project. It is better to have to much yarn/thread than not enough.
I know gauge can seem a big confusing. Gauge is a measurement between a beginning point and ending point. The best way to determine your unique gauge is to crochet a swatch of the pattern stitches that you will be using in the pattern. If you are making your project out of the shell stitch, then create your swatch out of the shell stitch. This is checking to see how many stitches you are going to have between a beginning and ending measurement, for the yarn and hook you are using. You can crochet a 4x4" or 6x6" swatch to get a fair estimate of the stitch size. It does not need to be fancy or very big.
An example will be if you have a sweater pattern that you want to crochet. It calls for 4-Ply yarn with an "H" crochet hook. You have some really pretty 3-ply yarn that you want to use with an "F" hook. It will take more stitches across with 3-ply yarn and "F" hook, since 3-ply yarn and "F" hook are smaller. You need to determine how many stitches you will need between the measurements that the pattern recommends. You can always adjust ending rows at any time. If you don't get your width correct in the beginning, you will be ripping or very dissapointed because your sweater does not fit correctly.
The images below show a swatch that I crocheted. The bottom section of the swatch is done with a G crochet hook, 18 double crochet and is approximately 5" wide. The top section is crocheted with an N crochet hook, 18 double crochet and is approximately 7-1/4" wide. Just by that example alone you can see the width change in size by using a different crochet hook. The gauge changed quite a bit, when I changed the hook size.
What we want to do is determine how many stitches we will need if we are making something 10" wide with each hook. In the image on the left, we can see that there are 4 stitches in an inch with the G hook. There are 3 stitches per inch with the N hook. 10 x 4=40 stitches(G hook); 10 x 3 = 30 stitches (N hook). You may feel you need a few more or a few less stitches in your 10" example. That is where guesstimating will play a role. There are 6 crochet hook sizes between the example hooks that I used. You may find that with some hooks you will have a 3-1/2 stitches per inch. You may even have 3-3/4 stitches per inch. You will need to adjust accordingly since you are not able to crochet half of a stitch or 3/4 of a stitch.
You measure the same for your rows which are a little more forgiving to adjustment. In the image to the right you will see that there are 2 rows per inch for the G hook which will give us 20 rows in 10". The N hook has about 1-1/2 rows per inch. Once again will be some guesstimating since we are unable to make half of a row. It would be a fair estimate that there will be 15 rows in 10" for the N hook.
To put it simply, I am figuring how stitches are in an inch. How many rows are in an inch. How may stitches will be in 10" of width? How may rows will be in 10" of length. Gauge is something that only you can determine yourself.
It is normal to have an uneven edge with the chain 3 on the edge of a small square or an afghan. It may look lumpy, bumpy and crooked. Chain 3's may even add fullness so the sides of your afghan so they are longer than the center section of your piece. You may also find a larger gap next to the chain 3 in a crochet circle so it is not just edges that are affected by the additional fullness that the chain 3 may add.
This image shows two swatches, both crocheted with an "I" crochet hook, 8 double crochet each. The left swatch is done with the chain 3. The right swatch is done with the chain 2. Even though the measurements are close, you can see the difference in how the gaps will close up by using a chain 2 instead of a chain 3. A chain 2 will improve the final outcome of wavy edges.
There are a couple of things you can do to make edges more even or to close the gap of a circle. You can crochet a tighter chain 3 if you feel it is necessary to use a chain 3. You can also replace the chain 3 with a chain 2. The chain 2 in place of the chain 3 is a great way to reduce full edges. I have found that a chain 2 will work better and pull the edge snug, tight and even. To replace the chain 3 all you do is count your chain 2 as your first double crochet. When you get back to your other side, you do your last crochet in your previous chain 2. The objective is to eliminate the gaps and holes that the extra chain will cause.
This will also work for the half double crochet if you find that you have wavy edges or gaps in your rounds and edges. Instead of starting off with a chain 2, do a chain 1. The chain 1 will not count as your first stitch. It will just be the step to your first half double crochet allowing more control of potential wavy edges.
Any pattern is just a guide to creating a crochet piece. In the end, you are the one creating the finished project. You don't have to follow the exact instructions every time.
With a contrasting color, Single Crochet around the smallest top circle, evenly attaching the 4, 3-sided motifs. Evenly single crochet together the sides of each 3-sided motif. Single crochet 2 circles to the bottom of each 3-sided motif and on around each circle.
Row 1: DC in 4th CH from hook, **CH 1, *SK 1 CH, DC in next CH, CH 1, Repeat from * 4 times, SK 1, CH1 , (DC, CH 3, DC in same CH), *CH 1, SK 1 CH, DC in next CH, Repeat from * 4 times, CH 1, SK 1 CH, (See Diagram)First part of DC DEC in next CH, SK 3 CH, Second part of DC DEC in 4th CH. Continue from ** for next ripple section. Edge decrease is worked over 3 chains.
Row 2: Counts as edge decrease, CH 3, SK CH & DC in next DC, *DC in CH 1 SP and DC for a total of 8, 2 DC, CH 3, 2 DC in Ch 3 SP. 8 DC in DC and CH 1 SP. DC DEC, Skipping CH 1's and previous DC DEC. Repeat from *. Edge- DC DEC -See diagram.